I have finally (hopefully) reached the end of my T-Bird service spree for the time being. Whoo hoo!
Transmission Work
I decided to tackle the job of flushing the transmission fluid, replacing the transmission filter, and installing an auxiliary transmission cooler. The job went very well. I got a nice Mercon V ATF fluid bath. When they said that the transmission is electronically controlled…boy they were right. There are wires going every way behind the transmission pan.
To empty the transmission, all you do is disconnect the upper transmission cooling line, connect a rubber hose on the radiator end, start the car and stick the hose in a bucket. Once the flow of oil slows or burps, shut the car off and remove the transmission oil pan. The oil pan will be pretty close to empty, which is very handy. You don’t have to worry about balancing the pan while laying under the car.
Once you remove the oil pan, be prepared for the transmission to drip everywhere. The filter will be right there. It’s a pressed fit, so you just gently pull it off. Whip out your new filter and push it in keeping the same orientation as the old filter. Clean the oil pan with brake cleaner to remove any stray particles. The gasket is re-usable, so unless it has a break or is cracking anywhere, clean it off and re-install it along with the pan. Fill ‘er up with tranny oil and you’re good to go! Don’t forget to cycle through the gear selector and check the fluid a few times. Also, after driving around for a while you should check the fluid, just in case.
The auxiliary transmission cooler install went very smoothly, as well. All it took was some ruber hose, an oil cooler, the right fittings to tap between the upper radiator connector and upper transmission line, and hose clamps. You can mount it however you like, but I was lazy and used the zip tie mounting straps that came with my cooler kit. With these, you pretty much “zip tie” the tranny cooler to the A/C condenser. If you’re really picky you’d remove the front nose and give it a “proper” mounting. I didn’t feel like removing the nose. lol This way works just fine, anyway. You’ll just need new straps if you ever have to do a radiator replacement.
I did notice improvement in shifting, and the torque converter doesn’t “shudder” at lockup, either. I’ve also noticed that the car cools down a little faster than it used to…but that could be in my head.
Front Wheel Bearings
After my tranny work, something posessed me to spin my drivers front tire. As I did this, I heard this slight knocking sound. Hmm…the bearings must be dry. The wheel bearings on this car are sealed, so when the bearings go out be prepared to replace the whole hub and spindle nut. They’re about $85+ a piece. So I did both. If you have a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft-lbs and a 36mm socket, changing the front wheel hub assembly is easy. If you don’t have those, stop by your nearest Autozone…they’ll rent them to you for free.